That is a good reason to use the mortar base, take your time then and get it level, screw the flange to the studs by just resting the screw on top of the tub flange and tightening until the head is tight to the tub flange, I used some washers on a couple that needed it. Very important to level your tub deck during install, front to back side to side each end, the tub wall kits have some play built in for walls that wing out or in, in the front or back, but the tub deck must be level to get your wall kit joints tight. 4 tubes worth! Then when the adhevive is fully cured, caulk all joints with white silicone, the sticky stuff. 1/4' beads every 6-8' grid pattern on anything that touched the hardie board, the back of each shelf where it would contact hardi, and the tub deck where the panels sit and each joint where the panels meet each other and the screw flange to the wall board. It's not the brand I would go with for my own house but the one in the store seems pretty sturdy & my friend's fiance LOVES the tub & doesn't want a different one.Ģ.I glued the heck out of the panels to 1/4' hardie board with Loctite tub wall adhesive, it's one of the few that actually say it works on cement boards, as well as being waterproof. I know the pros of the mortar are that it is sturdy but I've heard that if you move the tub too much after placing it, the mortar won't conform to the tub as well as something like drywall mud.Īny particular techniques/tips for a mortar bed? But should we use some sort of plastic on the bottom of the tub between it and the mortar so it won't stick the tub if the tub needs to be pulled? I believe the mfr suggested roofing felt. Putting a moisture barrier down between the plywood and mortar bed is a given. We want it to be sturdy but to be forgiving if the tub needs to be pulled/moved. I checked youtube & some people showed very wet mortar bed, others showed it sandy & moist. Looks like it needs to be at least 3/4" to 1" thick although I'm waiting for the mfr to confirm the distance of the tub bottom from the floor. I've seen people suggest everything from sandy cement mix to drywall mud to spray foam (spray foam is being ruled out). I was trying to research & couldn't find any sort of consensus on the best & easiest type to use. Super saver shipping was super fast for me (1-2 days). but it is all metal and fits American Standard tubs well shortening the installation time. Rotary escutcheon knob controls the pop-up drain stopper. Neither of us have ever worked with mortar (although I've poured cement & we've both worked with floor leveling mix- not the self-leveling kind). The Universal Bathtub Drain from American Standard is made of solid brass, ensuring durability in every application. The installation instructions call for a mortar bed. My friend is going to get the American Standard Saver tub from Lowes (it's called Ovation at HomeDepot).
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